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Writer's pictureKyle Matson

San Sebastian – An Old and New World Gastronomical Experience on Spain's North Atlantic Shore.


San Sebastián is a jewel of Spain's Basque Country that blends timeless tradition with modern luxury. Famous for its world-class culinary scene, stunning coastal views, and vibrant cultural attractions, this city offers an unforgettable experience for travelers and families. Whether you're savoring pintxos in the old town, indulging in Michelin-starred dining, or exploring the city's charming streets and markets, San Sebastián promises a journey of rich cultural Basque tastes, sights, and experiences.



San Sebastian's human inhabitant history goes back tens of thousands of years to the stone ages, but the visceral presence of the architecture speaks to the Spanish and and European aristocratic wealth that descended here around the end of the 17th century.


What are pintxos you ask? Read on to find out.


Exploring the Streets

Nestled along the beautiful Bay of Biscay, San Sebastián is a dazzling gem that blends traditional charm with modern luxury. This city, known as Donostia in Basque, offers a unique tapestry of experiences for travelers seeking both leisurely indulgence and cultural richness. With its world-renowned culinary scene, vibrant shopping districts, and picturesque promenades, San Sebastián promises an unforgettable journey through its historic streets and contemporary delights.


Dining & Culinary Delights

San Sebastián boasts the highest number of Michelin-star restaurants per capita in the world, making it a culinary pilgrimage site. From casual pintxos bars to opulent fine dining, the city's food scene is an epicurean's dream. The number of good restaurants and pintzos bars is a bit overwhelming, so be sure to consult your concierge and make reservations to the Michelin-starred restaurants weeks in advance.


Pintxos: A Taste of Tradition

Pintxos, the Basque version of tapas, are a cornerstone of San Sebastián’s culinary identity. Originating from a simple idea of serving snacks on bread to accompany drinks, each bar now specializes in unique pintxos that showcase creativity and tradition. Wander through the pedestrian streets of Zentroa, the old town, and sample delights like marinated anchovies, grilled prawns, and succulent Iberian ham at bars such as Bar Nestor or La Cuchara de San Telmo.



Michelin Stars and Fine Dining

For those seeking a more lavish dining experience, San Sebastián's Michelin-starred restaurants offer an unparalleled gastronomic journey. Arzak, a three-star establishment, combines innovation with Basque tradition, while Mugaritz offers a sensory experience that blurs the line between food and art. Akelarre, perched on the hillside, not only delivers exquisite cuisine but also breathtaking views of the coastline.


2024 Recommendations


We took the pintxos (pronounced "pin-chos") food tour on our first day with Gabriel at a company called Devour which was a good thing as we got a local's point of view of favorites with specialties. Some are more traditional and can be lower-end quality so it's important to suss out the good ones. It's standing room only and typically you'll need to go to the bar to order food. And they don't take reservations, so if you want to avoid the crowds be there at the opening time as regional tourists generally dine later than 12:00 pm. Here are our favorites from the tour and a few days of tasting!


PINTXOS BARS

Casa Gandarias Bar: the Solomillo or grilled steak with a jalapeno on top was outstanding! We went back for that twice!



RESTAURANTS

Mendaur Gastropub: Jamón ibérico Bellota, deep fried calamari, sangria, local cheese plate...I'm sure there was more good stuff to taste here!




Antonio Boulevard: Great stop for lunch on a plaza between the beech promenade and the old town. Our Aged Beef Carpaccio (wow!).




Saltxipi – is upmarket dining in a gorgeous garden. We didn't take photos here but had the crab stuffed peppers and anchovies in oil to start, then split the Côte de boeuf à la braise (T-bone steak). All very highly recommended! (The service was a little less professional than we expected, but if you can ignore that you'll be happy with the food and ambiance.)


Cultural Attractions

San Sebastián’s rich cultural tapestry is evident in its historical landmarks and vibrant arts scene. The city's architecture, from the neo-Gothic Buen Pastor Cathedral to the Belle Époque elegance of the Miramar Palace, reflects its storied past.


Constitucion Square

In the heart of Zentroa lies Constitucion Square, a historic plaza surrounded by colorful buildings and lively pintxos bars. Once a bullfighting arena, this square is now a hub of social activity and a testament to the city's evolving history. The rooms are numbered surrounding the plaza, which our guide said originally were reserved for aristocrats who were guests of the king to ensure a front-row seat to the best events in town. Rumor had it the king had free reign access to these rooms when occupied. Interesting.


San Telmo Museum

For a deeper dive into Basque culture, the San Telmo Museum offers a fascinating collection of artifacts, artworks, and exhibits that trace the region's heritage from prehistoric times to the present day.


Bay of Biscay Promenade

A walk along the city's dedicated pedestrian promenade offers stunning views of the coastline and an opportunity to soak in the serene beauty of the Bay of Biscay. If you're a beachgoer, the sand is of a fine grain and groomed daily. It's possible to rent paddle boards and small sailboats too. It's the perfect place to unwind and reflect on your adventures in this enchanting city.


Food Markets

San Sebastián's food markets are a paradise for chefs and food enthusiasts alike. These markets are where the city's top chefs source the freshest ingredients for their culinary creations.


La Bretxa Market

Located in the heart of the city, La Bretxa Market is a bustling hub where you can find the finest seafood, meats, and produce. This market has been a staple since the 19th century and continues to be a favorite among locals and visitors in central San Sebastian.


San Martín Market

San Martín Market is another essential stop for those of you who have kitchens, offering a diverse range of high-quality products. From freshly caught fish to artisanal cheeses and local delicacies, this market encapsulates the essence of Basque cuisine. This one is a bit further afield.


Shopping


San Sebastián's shopping scene caters to all tastes, from luxury brands to charming boutiques. The city's streets are lined with stores offering everything from high fashion to unique souvenirs.


Upmarket Shopping

Stroll along Urbieta, Fuenterrabia, and Getaria streets, where you'll find an array of high-end boutiques and internationally renowned brands. Whether you're looking for the latest fashion trends or timeless pieces, these streets offer a luxurious shopping experience.


Touristic Shopping

For a more traditional shopping experience, visit the San Martín and La Bretxa markets. Here, you can purchase local products and artisanal goods, perfect for bringing a piece of San Sebastián back home.


Fun for Kids

San Sebastián isn't just a haven for adults; it's a fantastic destination for families with children as well. The city offers a range of activities that cater to younger visitors, ensuring they have an equally enjoyable experience.


Beaches and Outdoor Activities

La Concha Beach is perfect for family fun, with its gentle waves and soft sand. Kids can enjoy building sandcastles, swimming, or even paddleboarding. The nearby Ondarreta Beach offers a quieter alternative with a lovely playground area.


Monte Igueldo Amusement Park


For a bit of old-fashioned fun, take the funicular up to Monte Igueldo Amusement Park. Whether you have kids with you or not, the views of the Bay of Biscay and San Sebastian from here are worth the trip for photo ops. You don't need to pay admission, just a small amount for the ride up.


This charming amusement park offers vintage rides, bumper cars, a house of mirrors, and a roller coaster, all set against stunning panoramic views of the city and the sea. It was a cloudy day when we visited, just imagine this in full sun!


Aquarium and Science Museum

The San Sebastián Aquarium is a hit with children, featuring an impressive collection of marine life and interactive exhibits. Similarly, the Eureka! Science Museum provides hands-on exhibits and planetarium shows that are both educational and entertaining.


Cristina Enea Park

For a more relaxed outing, visit Cristina Enea Park. This expansive green space offers plenty of room for children to run and play, with beautiful gardens, peacocks, and a pond full of ducks.


Street Performers


We stayed near the beachfront promenade on the Bay of Biscay and saw a constant flow of talented street performers. Here's just one video from a trio of traveling street performers who were excellent and getting the crowd jazzed up. This particular talent was a very fit young guy who prided himself on aerial stunts over objects. I think it inspired a few kids.



Where to stay

We recommend the Lasala Plaza Hotel which is right on the beach promenade and minutes from shops and the famous pintxos bars. We were really pleased with the room, the staff is very attentive, and a great view. The bar and pool area on the top of the building is fantastic on a warm evening after a long day of walking around town. With 360 views, it overlooks the Bay of Biscay and central San Sebastian including the Sacre Couer statue on the top of the hill nearby.


The Sights, Sounds, Tastes & Experiences

San Sebastián is a sensory feast, offering more than just beautiful sights. The sound of waves crashing against the La Concha beach and your toes in the white sand, the taste of expertly crafted pintxos, and the vibrant atmosphere of its streets create a dynamic, unforgettable and authentic Basque experience.


Summary

San Sebastián is a city that harmoniously blends tradition with luxury, offering an array of experiences for discerning travelers. From its world-class dining to its vibrant shopping streets and rich cultural heritage, this Basque gem promises a journey of discovery and delight. Whether you're strolling through the historic Zentroa, savoring pintxos, or indulging in a Michelin-starred meal, San Sebastián's charm is sure to captivate. For families, the city's variety of kid-friendly activities ensures that visitors of all ages will have a memorable and enjoyable stay.


Stay tuned for the next blog about another famous European city!


Happy travels!


Kyle Matson


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If you haven't already, enjoy the other blogs in the series: DISCOVER Other European Cities, and don't forget to check out our Children's Travel Guides if you've got gifts for nieces and nephews to buy. I've spent time with my kids in their younger days in Europe, and they would love to share all the fun and cultural insights. They don't have to travel there to get inspired!



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